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We've compiled a list of frequently asked questions regarding swimming pools. If you still can't find the answer you're looking for, please feel free to get in touch!
A: A green pool is not what you want but unfortunately it is a very common problem amongst pool owners even the most seasoned ones. Firstly let’s look at why your pool is green and then we can focus on how to get rid of your green pool water. Algae is green and when it grows in your pool it turns your water green, simple.
Start by balancing your pH, as a green pool indicates a high pH level and adding shock to a high pH will turn your pool cloudy. Once your pH is at the correct level of 7.2 or lower you will need to shock your pool. The amount of shock required will depend on the size of your pool so please follow instructions. If there is enough free chlorine in your water than algae can not grow. Once the shock has circulated for a few hours test your pH and adjust accordingly.
Next, we would suggest adding an algaecide followed by a brush to loosen any stuck algae. Now you can Floc it, vacuum to waste and rebalance. If the pool water is still green you need to redo this process. Make sure you backwash and rinse your filter to make sure there are no algae spores lingering.
A: Some might think a green pool is worse but actually a cloudy pool could be a sign of some nasty bacteria breeding in your water that could be bad for your health and bad for your circulation system. Firstly it is important to work out why your pool is cloudy. Cloudiness is not something that usually happens overnight, as soon as you notice a slight cloudiness it is important to start clearing it before it develops and becomes hard to manage.
Firstly does your pool have enough santiser? Are you getting large amounts of debris in your pool that is causing your santiser to work harder than usual? Have you had more bathers than usual? Have you had an algae problem? Has it been exceptionally sunny? All of these factors can lead to a cloudy pool because they all deplete your santiser levels. As your santiser level drops dangerous bacteria can start to grow and start turning your water.
Another culprit of cloudy water is your circulatory system, as previously mentioned, excessive debris can cause a depletion of santiser so it is vital that your filtration system runs for at least 8 hours a day to ensure large debris is cleared and your sanitiser can work on smaller particles.
Pool water chemistry can also cause cloudy water and a whole host of other issues. For example, high pH and high alkalinity can lead to scale on pool surfaces, inside plumbing and make it hard for your santiser to work which as we have discussed can lead to cloudy water.
So now we know what causes cloudy pool water we can look at how to get rid of it. Firstly you want to clean your pool thoroughly, scrub and vacuum. Then shock it, this should eliminate cloudiness due to bacteria. However, if the cloudiness is due to algae you may need to double or triple shock your pool. Balance your chemicals, floc and then use a clarifier.
To keep your cloudy pool water at bay follow these steps: Weekly testing and balancing, skimming and vacuuming, basic filter maintenance, and regular shocking will keep your pool healthy and clear all season long.
A: You’re enjoying your pool and all of a sudden you spot some little wriggly worms, you might scream or rush to get out, no one wants to see worms in their pool. There are two main types of worms that you might find wriggling in your pool.
If you see clusters of worms at the bottom of your pool these are called tubifex; they tend to live in dirty muddy water, often amongst the leaves and debris. They prefer still water and are often introduced by bird droppings, animals in your pool or from muddy feet. To get rid of these worms it is important that you remove the breeding ground by scooping out the mud, leaves and other debris. Add chlorine and run your filter to kill off any remaining eggs and worms. To avoid reinfestation, keep your pool covered when not in use and ensure bathers wash their feet before going in.
If the worms are swimming in your pool water they are most likely bloodworms also known as midge fly larvae. They like clear, clean water which is predominantly still, adult midges will lay their eggs in water where they feel the larvae will survive. It is frustrating to have a beautifully clean pool that is attracting midges. To get rid of these worms, simply add chlorine and run your filtration system, keep your pool covered when not in use to stop the midges laying their eggs.
My pool is draining itself? My pool is leaking?
A: Firstly it is important to establish whether your pool is actually leaking, it may be losing water, you may have to top up or your auto topper is coming on but this does not mean you have a leak. Pool water can be lost due to various reasons such as:
Evaporation - This is often the biggest culprit of water loss, rates of evaporation will vary depending on factors such as wind, temperature changes, and levels of humidity. One way to reduce water loss due to evaporation is to use a pool cover. Unfortunately, pool covers are a faff and you may not always want to put it on. This is quite a common dilemma, we often find that customers use their cover at the beginning of the season but after a while, they stop using it regularly, this will increase their evaporation rate and lead to the assumption that the pool is leaking.
Backwashing - If your pool requires a regular backwash, it will only take a few before you notice a drop in your water level.
Pool use - From jumping, splashing to even swimming, water will be displaced and sometimes even large amounts depending on the use of the pool. If you have had an increase in use, a few summer parties or lots of children, your water loss could simply be due to pool enjoyment.
Once you have established that there is a significant unexplained water loss it is time to consider what type of pool do you have and where the leak is coming from.
If it is an above ground pool such as Intex then it is possible that during the last use a tear was created and therefore the water is slowly leaking out. In most circumstances, this can be fixed with a pool repair patch.
If your pool is an inground liner or tiled pool then there are various areas where your pool might be leaking from such as tile cracks, tear in liner, skimmers, main drain, pump, filter, pipes etc.
The easiest way to establish if you have a leak and where it is coming from is to have a leak detection test. Although they can be costly, they will save you money in the long run as they will detect precisely where all the leaks are and prevent a lengthy guessing game. Click here to find out more about our leak detection services.
A: Fear not you are not alone in asking why your pool is still green it is one of the most commonly asked questions with regards to the pool water. Unfortunately sometimes adding chlorine will have little or no effect due to something we call chlorine lock. This happens when there is a build-up of other chemicals such as the stabilser cyanuric acid and chlorine is no longer in the right chemical form to attack the algae and kill it. To combat this first of all you will need to dilute your pool water by adding some fresh water as there are no other means of diluting this build-up. Once this level has dropped your chlorine will be able to work and start attacking the algae.
High phosphates can also cause your pool to stay green, you may have added chlorine but the algae are having a field day with the amount of food your pool is offering so it is growing at a fantastic rate. Add some phosphate remover to aid the reduction and death of the algae.
A: Brown pool water looks horrid but thankfully there are only a couple of causes, once established it is important to solve the problem to avoid permanent staining.
Firstly when did you last add any chemicals, was it just before your pool turned brown or was it is a while ago? If you have just added chemicals then this is a key component in establishing why the water is brown. More often than not a brown pool is due to a chemical reaction with an impurity in the water. Such as chlorine reacting with iron in your water. Causes of the iron could be due to an old swimming pool heater, iron from the water source. There are numerous chemicals that can be used to remove the iron and therefore stop getting brown water.
Mesh pool covers are another cause as they stop leaves but allow rain water, the rain water will remove tannins from the leaves and bring them into the pool water. To combat this, simply run your filtration system and keep on top of chlorine levels.
What acidity in a pool is considered normal?
A: The pH or acidity level of a pool should be around 7.4 which is around the same pH of a human's eye. pH is the measure of the acidity of water it goes from 0 to 14, 7 is neutral.
If your pool water pH is high then chlorine will not work properly, your water will be cloudy and skin may get irritated. If your pool water pH is high then you can use pH minus to lower the level. If your pH is low then you can damage your machinery such as your pump or filter etc. Irritate your eyes and damage your pool liner.
A: There are several reasons why this could be happening. Firstly how much chlorine has been added to the pool? What is the chlorine level? Sometimes too much chlorine can be added by accident, it can be common if your pool is green and you think you need to shock it, etc. However, sometimes high levels of cyanuric acid can cause chlorine lock and therefore it will not kill off the algae but you go ahead and add more chlorine. The key to healthy pool water is to test your pool water. Too much chlorine can cause extreme sickness and lead to lung, skin and eye irritation. It can also cause damage to your pool by lowering pH levels that can begin to corrode pool equipment, concrete, and liners.
How to remove excess chlorine, you can try letting it dissipate by leaving your pool cover off alternatively you can use a chlorine reducer. We can not stress this enough but test, test, test, make sure your test strips are in date or invest in a good chemical test kit as it will ultimately save you a lot of hassle in the long run.
Guideline values for pH 7,4 and a pool temperature up to 35°C: :
0,5-1,6 ppm (mg/l)
0-0,4 ppm (mg/l)
Max 2,0 ppm (mg/l)
30-50 ppm (mg/l)
Max 250 ppm (mg/l) (0,025%)
A: High alkalinity can make it hard to change the pH as they are very much linked, adding pH raiser will also raise the level of alkalinity. So what do you do when your pool water has high alkalinity and low pH? The pH in your pool water will lower depending on a few factors including the type of santiser you use such as chlorine tablets or stabilised forms of chlorine, the amount of debris is entering your water. You can’t lower your alkalinity without affecting your pH but you can raise your pH without impacting your alkalinity. Firstly you need to lower the alkalinity and pH using pH reducer, then you aerate your pool water to raise the pH. Now you may be thinking how will adding bubbles increase your pH, well the carbon dioxide in bubbles creates carbonic acid as it mixes with you pool water which in turn raises the pH in your pool.
A: No pressure or low pressure can cause a serious problem in your pool especially if your filtration system is being affected. Low pool pressure may appear as weak jets, air bubbles, slow cleaners and issues with additional pool features such as fountains.
Firstly let's look at how the pool system functions, there are two sides to every pool system, one that sucks and one that controls the pressure. The suction side occurs before the pump and pressure side occurs after the pump.
Pressure drops can occur due to several reasons:
A leak in the suction side will cause air to be sucked into the system
A crack in the pressure side will cause water to spray.
A blockage in the suction side of your pool system will stop water being sucked in and therefore your pressure will be lowered.
Low water level - if it’s too low then the pump will struggle to function and your pressure will drop. Therefore make sure there is enough water in your pool, at least halfway up the skimmer.
A clogged skimmer basket, filter or strainer - if either your skimmer basket, filter or strainer basket is full of debris or blocked there will be a reduction in water passing through into the system and the pump will do less work and therefore the pressure will drop. To fix this simply clean the above and keep it free from debris.
A clogged impeller is often overlooked when looking at low-pressure issues, if the impeller gets a build-up of debris then the water can’t rotate and this decreases the water flow through the pump.
A leak in the suction end before the pump can cause several issues, firstly a small leak will cause small amounts of air to be sucked into the pump which will start to accumulate at the top of the filter tank, in some cases after a few hours the air will build up and cause enough back pressure to reduce the flow of water. In extreme cases when the pump is shut off this air will cause a surge of water to push up through the skimmer. If there is a large crack then too much air may be sucked into the pump and it will struggle to prime.
A leak at the diverter valve - There are diverter valves in front of the pump that control various system elements such as the skimmer, main drain, and the vac lines, these contain seals and over time these may perish therefore allowing air into the system.
Does your pool have a lot of features, fountains, jets, etc, your pump is only designed to move certain volumes of water, too many features attached to one system will result in a diminished pressure as you go through the system. One way to solve this is to alternate the features you use, alternatively, you could invest in a larger pump.
A small pump can also cause issues even without additional features if the pump size was not calculated correctly in accordance with the size of your pool.
A: As we have just discussed, air bubbles can occur when air enters the system on the suction side of your pool system. It is quite a common experience when you open your pool at the beginning of the season. You will usually see the air bubbles shooting out of the return jets.
There are three places where this air may enter your system, firstly the skimmer, as described above it is important that your water level is at least have way up your skimmer to prevent air being sucked in.
Check the weir to see if it is jammed, it is used to regulate water flow as well as preventing large debris from entering your skimmer, not everyone has one.
Check your pump lid intact with a functioning o ring and that the basket isn't cracked.
Thirdly check your unions are still working and there are no cracks. Any area which allows air to enter the system will ultimately cause issues or result in air bubbles in your pool. If you are struggling to locate a leak or crack then we would advise contacting your local pool company for advice and/or a leak investigation. Click here to find out more about leak investigations.
A: This is one of the most frustrating chemical issues associated with owning a pool. You test your water and you get a non-existent chlorine reading. So your first response is to add some chlorine, whilst assuming that you haven’t been adding enough. After adding some chlorine you test again but you are still getting a zero. Questions to ask include, is your test kit reliable, is it still in date? Are all your other chemical levels balanced?
Firstly we would suggest investing in a good chemical test kit that uses reagents rather than strips as these offer a clearer and more defined reading. You can also head to your local pool shop and ask them to test it.
One reason why you can’t get a chlorine reading is that your pool has a high chlorine demand aka chlorine lock. This can occur due to several reasons such as when there is too much cyanuric acid in your water which decreases the functionality of the chlorine and it becomes ineffective. Alternatively too little cyanuric acid can cause your chlorine to disappear quickly which will leave a low or nonexistent reading. Cyanuric acid is a stabiliser which protects the chlorine and helps reduce the effect the sun has on chlorine.
Your pool may have a high demand due to an excessive build-up of algae, bacteria, and phosphates, you may be adding chlorine but the organic material in your pool water is overwhelming the chlorine and it won’t register on your test strips. One way to prevent this is to keep your algae levels low by using algaecide and ensuring regular brushing of your walls and floors so that the algae can be filtered and dealt with.
Large volumes of rainwater can change your pool water chemistry by adding bacteria and oxygen which can result in an increased demand for chlorine.
To establish whether your pool has a high demand for chlorine, firstly you need to do a test for total chlorine and free chlorine. Total chlorine will tell you how much chlorine is in your pool whether it is used or not, free chlorine tells you how much chlorine is in your pool that is free to disinfect.
Reading the results: If your free chlorine levels are the same as your total chlorine level then your pool does not have a chlorine demand.
However, if your free chlorine is different from your total chlorine levels then there is an issue.
So let’s look at a few ways to deal with chlorine lock, firstly you could shock your pool and try to increase the chlorine level by 3 times more than it currently is or up to around 20ppm. We suggest using a non-chlorine shock until your readings are equal.
You could part drain your pool, add fresh water, add chlorine and test, however, the amount you will need to drain and the amount of chlorine you need to add will depend on the level of chlorine lock.
A: In order to answer this we need to understand the different parts of your pump, how they work, what they do, and how they can go wrong. Your pool pump is like the heart of your pool, if it fails then your pool water will start to turn. Unfortunately when there is something wrong with your pump the first thing you will notice is a drop in pressure and there are several parts of the pump that can cause this, which is why you need to be systematic in your checking in order to establish exactly what part of your pump has failed. So let’s look at the different parts starting with the motor.
The motor is the main part of your pump, without it is won’t work. The lifespan of a pool pump motor is around 3-5 years depending on how well it is maintained and the conditions it is exposed to for example excessive temperature changes.
A healthy pump should run reasonably quietly depending on the model. The key to knowing whether there is something wrong with your pump is being aware of the noises it makes or doesn’t. Here is a list of noises and what they could possibly mean:
Silence – The shaft of the motor has frozen providing you with a new 30-pound paperweight. There is no chance of rebuilding the motor, the only route is to replace.
Grinding or Screeching – A sign of bad bearings caused by age or rusting. Bad bearings are also a sign of a leaky shaft seal.
Loud Hum – If the shaft is spinning then it is likely the capacitor failing. If the shaft is not spinning then the bearings have frozen and locked up the shaft.
Flipping Breaker- A deep internal component within the motor has failed and requires the motor to be replaced or rebuilt.
The seal plate where the motor joins the pump housing. Check it for cracks which can lead to leaks and a lack of pressure. Cracks can be caused by wear and tear but sometimes due to over-tightening.
The Shaft seal is seen as one of the most important parts of the pool pump, it is made of two sides, a white ceramic ring which is protected by a rubber sleeve and a spring-loaded side with a carbon ring. This seal keeps water away from your motor if this seal fails water will begin to let water in which will lead to corrosion of bearings, electrical parts, etc. Here are a few indicators that your seal may have failed.
Water dripping from motor vents
Rusty motor casing
White whirling on motor face
Housing Gasket This is the largest gasket that seals the seal plate and the pump housing. It is easy to see whether this is causing the problems as water will be coming from the space between the pump and seal plate.
Lid Gasket is also known as the lid O-ring. With a faulty o-ring, you will get a suction leak rather than a pumping leak, if this gasket is damaged you will get air being sucked into the system. Signs that this is damaged are large air bubbles in your basket, lowered water pressure or your pump is struggling to prime.
Diffuser Gasket is another very important part of your pump as it helps to increase the pulling power of your motor and impeller which helps the pump prime itself. It is found where the diffuser/impeller meets the front of the housing. Signs that this is damaged could be your pump is losing prime or your water pressure is low.
The impeller is found screwed on to the end of the motor shaft, it draws in water and pushed it out again. If the impeller in your pump breaks then you will lose pressure. Your impeller may have potentially seized or broken, in some cases, you may hear some rattling from the broken pieces.
The diffuser is a cone-shaped cover that sits over the impeller, it helps to focus the impellers pulling force, you may notice a sudden drop in water pressure if this cracks or breaks.
Pump lid is used to see whether your pump is working properly, which is why it is clear, over time they can become brittle, warp and break which will lead to a sucking air leak.
Strainer basket is there to catch debris before it enters the main part of your pump where it can cause damage. If your strainer basket cracks or breaks then parts of debris can get in. Signs of a broken strainer basket include, rattling noises, torn cartridges, and a clogged impeller.
Finally, the main part that you see, the pump housing. The housing is the part which holds all of the internals, it can often get worn and begin to crack after time, due to changes in weather, chemical exposure. You can usually see issues with the pump housing such as cracks, dry rot and other forms of degradation.
There are several reasons why your pool pump is not priming, we will run through the most obvious causes. However, in some very rare circumstances, the problem is due to a leak in some underground pipework. If you go through this list and you are still having an issue, please contact your local SPATA registered swimming pool engineer.
Is your water level high enough for proper circulation?
How is the flow into your skimmers? Are there any obstructions, do you have weirs? Are they stuck?
Is there water in the strainer basket? If not, open the lid and add water for a couple of minutes, then attempt to prime again.
What sound is your pool pump making? When you turn it on is it making any noise? Is there just a low hum? It may have an electrical fault which will need diagnosing by a pool company.
Check your lid and o-ring, are there any visible signs of cracks or damage, if your pump is taking in air it will lose pressure and struggle to prime.
Are the correct valves open? Finally is the impeller clogged, which will impede the pump’s ability to suck and therefore prime.
Hopefully, once you check all of these you will have found the solution, if not call your local company.
Sometimes your pump will start up fine and then all of a sudden stop. This is more than likely to be due to an electrical overload or overheating. All electrical equipment produces some level of heat however if your pump starts to get warmer than usual it is a sign that there is something wrong. Unfortunately in some cases, pool pumps have been known to catch fire. Pumps are designed to release heat but any heat above and beyond what they should produce will cause damage and ultimately pump failure. Some of the most common reasons for overheating are friction most commonly due to rusty or corroded bearings, lookout for signs of oil leaks and deal with it immediately. Most electric motors are air-cooled, if the airflow is blocked then the pump may not be able to cool down properly and may overheat. You should also check the power supply in case something has happened which is causing the pump to trip.
Why isn’t my pool cleaner working? A good pool cleaner or pool vacuum is one of the best things a pool owner can invest in. It clears up debris such as leaves and insects but it is also great for when you want to clean your pool after you flock it. Sometimes, unfortunately, your pool cleaner stops working. Thankfully there is usually a simple and reasonably easy explanation and solution to fix the problem.
Pool vacuums work alongside the pump system, you simply attach your vac hose to your pool pump system, turn on your pump and the water is sucked through your vacuum. Some are automatic and will systematically move around your pool and some require manual pushing using a pole to ensure it covers all areas of the pool. The debris which is sucked into the vacuum is caught either by a filter or a net.
Pool vacuums are usually fairly reliable, as long as your pump system is working then your hoover should work, so if there is a problem with your pool hoover. The first place to look is your pool pump. If your system loses pressure then it will be unable to suck and therefore your vacuum will not work. See above for reasons why your pool pump may not be working.
Once you have checked that your pump is sucking correctly then it is time to see whether it is pumping properly, the most common reason a pump will stop discharging correctly is due to a failed seal on the union that connects the pump to the discharge pipes, if this is the case, you will usually see water coming from the union. Another culprit would be the motor shaft seal inside the pump, this can be replaced but it would require the whole pump to be taken apart.
Once you have established that there is no issue with your pump it is time to look at the vacuum itself. Firstly is the cleaner hose completely filled with water otherwise there will be air in the hose which will prevent correct suction to rectify this simply submerge the hose fully and fill with water.
Next, let's check your filters, are they clogged and do they need a clean? A clogged filter will also prevent correct suction, simply empty and clean the filters according to the manufacturer’s information. If there are still problems with your pool cleaner then we suggest calling your local pool company or the manufacturer.
A functioning pool filter is essential for the smooth and safe running of your pool. Although it is not electrical or highly complex a pool filter can still cause issues. Below is a list of the most common technical issues relating to a swimming pool filter.
My pool filter keeps spitting out sand: This can be one of the most frustrating issues associated with sand filters or Diatomaceous earth filters (DE), you’re hoovering your pool and keeping it clear from debris but you can still feel sand at the bottom of your pool. This could be due to cracked laterals or a broken downpipe in a sand filter or worn or torn grids in a DE filter.
The spider gasket is worn or damaged, signs of this include water coming out of the waste line even though it is set to filter or water is coming out around the valve. In some cases you can simply replace the gasket however in some circumstances the gasket is part of the diverter valve and you would be required to buy a whole valve.
High pressure inside your filter will often lead to issues such as cracked laterals, cracked tank and occasionally your filter lid will blow. High pressure in your tank can be due to a few issues, firstly the filter is the incorrect size for the pump, which means the pump is pushing more litres per minute and the filter can not keep up. Pressure can build up if your cartridges are dirty or your sand needs backwashing as the flow of water in being interrupted, you can get similar issues if the filter lines are clogged.
Low pressure can also cause problems by impacting the pool circulation, the key areas to check if you have low pressure are, your pump strainer basket and impeller, if they are filled with debris then the water flow will be decreased leading to low pressure in your filter. Clogged skimmers or stuck weirs can also cause pressure issues. Always check your pressure gauge is working correctly, it should return to zero when the pump is turned off.
A red filter could be a sign of oxidised minerals such as iron, manganese or copper. Or a sign of red algae, in most instances it is due to the mineral content of your water. Red algae is actually a bacteria, if you suspect your filter colour is due to this rather than minerals or metals in your water then there are a few things you can do.
Firstly we suggest a deep clean and backwash of pool whilst running your filter continuously. Then shock treat your pool and rebalance it. Keep the filter running until the red algae has disappeared, to avoid recurrence deep clean all objects that have been in your pool such as swimming customers, toys, floats and nets to ensure that no bacteria is reintroduced.
My pool filter is blowing sand
Sand blowing from your pool filter is a sign that something is broken, it is usually a filter seal. Sand filters are great but if the sand is escaping then there is definitely something wrong. Sometimes small amounts of sand can end up in your pool after a sand change, this is perfectly normal. However if sand continues to appear even after a vacuum then it is time to take a look at the filter. It could either be cracked laterals or a broken seal. Check for obvious cracks and if necessary call your local swimming pool company.
My pool filter keeps turning off
You press start on your pool filter and then after a few short minutes it turns off, this irritating moment is known as ‘pump tripping’ and it can happen for numerous reasons.
We all know that a non-functioning pool pump can quickly lead to awful pool water so it is important to understand why this is happening.
Firstly we would advise you to look at your electrical supply, is your pump connected correctly, does it have the correct power supply, have you just started to run other large appliances on your system. Other issues could include impeller issues, inability to prime or overheating. Once you have established that it is not due to an electrical issue, please refer to our notes about about filters to establish whether there is an obstruction.
Wrinkles in pool liners happen from time to time for a variety of reasons. Cracks in concrete or polyblocks can allow excess ground water to seep through and start push the liner away, when the ground water recedes the liner will go back but may not go back to its exact original positioning which can lead to wrinkles. Incorrect chemical balance can also lead to pool liner wrinkles as low pH can cause the liner to start absorbing water and stretch.
A good pool builder will be aware that wrinkles can happen and be willing to fix them during the installation of your liner. If wrinkles appear after the installation then it may be more difficult to get this situation resolved free of charge unless you can prove that you have been maintaining your chemicals at the correct level.
Sometimes wrinkles and creases appear in pool liners at the weather gets colder, so warming up your pool may help to remove some wrinkles.
Here are a few ways to remove wrinkles and creases in your liner.
Firstly a toilet plunger will work wonders on small wrinkles, use the plunger to gently direct the liner into the correct position.
For larger wrinkles we suggest removing some water, however please do this when the temperature is warm to avoid your liner tearing. Liners usually last between 5-10 years depending on the liner. Once the water is removed you can attempt to put your liner back into its correct position.
You can try walking through your pool with soft shoes on from side to side trying to stretch the liner and remove wrinkles.
If none of these work then we would suggest calling in the professionals, not only to remove the creases but also to establish why they are appearing just in case they are due to a leak etc.
This could be due to a couple of issues, firstly we would recommend testing your pool water for excessive minerals and metals. Too much copper can lead to blue or green stains on your liner. Copper is an excellent algaecide but high levels will cause staining, there are many non copper algaecides which work just as well so it might be worth switching if you are getting these coulour stains. Green stains can also be caused by algae itself, dead algae and tannins from leaves will often leave brown/green stains.
Unfortunately this can be part and parcel of living somewhere with glorious weather, a combination of UV rays and chlorine will lead to a pool liner fading. High levels of chlorine alone can cause a liner to fade so it is important to keep on top of your chemical levels.
Here are simple tips to help keep fading to a minimum.
Keep the UV rays off your pool when it is not in use by investing in a pool cover.
Consider lighter colour pool liners when buying a liner especially if you know it will be exposed to direct sunlight for long periods of time.
Floating chlorine dispensers can end up resting against your liner which can cause patches of fading to appear.
Pre-dissolve shock before adding it to your pool.
A hole in your pool liner needs to be dealt with quickly, firstly you will lose water but secondly that water may cause the liner to lift and move. There are vinyl patch kits available which can be done even whilst there is water in the pool, however these can be tricky to seal correctly. Holes can occur for numerous reasons, usually due to sharp objects or old age.
Your local pool company will be able to repair your liner quickly and efficiently. However in some circumstances it may be necessary to look at a new liner,especially if this is a recurring hole or a large hole.
The main culprit of a slippery liner is usually an algae build up, if you have recently had a new liner installed then it may feel slippery in comparison to your old one because it won’t have a build up of calcium on it which often makes a liner feel grippy. So if it isn't a new liner then you probably have some form of algae or bacteria growing on your liner. The easiest way to solve this is to give your liner a good brush, shock, rebalance, floc and vacuum.
As we mentioned before certain minerals can cause staining on liners, for example red brown stains on your pool liner is often caused by the iron content in your tap water, older pipes may have a certain amount of rust in them which will end up in your pool. Another source of brown stains may be excessive leaves and organic material in your pool which slowly release tannins, tannins are what causes your tea to turn brown. Keeping on top of maintenance can help eliminate staining. A little acid wash should help remove the stains. To properly identify what is causing the stains we advise you to get your pool water tested to see the mineral and metal content. Your local pool company should be able to test your water and advise on the best way to treat your problem. If the staining is due to metals then you can use a stain and scale inhibitor to prevent the brown liner stains.
Pool ladders come in all shapes and sizes and sometimes these designs result in your pool ladder floating. Although frustrating, there are ways to deal with this. Objects float in water when they are too light, depending on the type of pool you own it may not be possible to add extra secure fixings, so one solution is to weigh your ladder down. Some ladders have removable caps which will allow you to fill your ladder with sand. If your ladder does not have fill holes, you can use weights such as containers filled with sand to place at the bottom of your ladder and keep it weighed down. Always test the stability of your ladder to make sure it is secured correctly.
You’ve winterised or closed down your pool, you have taken all the necessary precautions to protect your pool, your winter debris cover has been put on and you think, great it’s all sorted. But it’s not long before a storm hits, high winds and poof your cover has come off exposing your pool to the elements and those pesky leaves. So what can you do to prevent this from happening.
Firstly ensure you have chosen the right pool cover, you want one which is strong, durable and will not easily tear from the fixings. Use a track to secure your pool cover to the sides rather than fixings into the ground.
Excessive leaves can weigh down a pool cover and cause it to sink and pull away from the fixings so investing in a leaf net will not only help keep your cover secure but it will also make it easier to remove the leaves from your cover. Another way to avoid overstretching is to remove excess water from the top of the cover.
Use extra weights such as sand bags to keep your fixings secure and prevent your cover blowing off in the wind.
Depending on the type of pool cover in question holes are either meant to be there or a sign of wear and tear. Many solar covers and above ground pool covers have small holes, this is usually to prevent water build up on top of the cover which in turn can damage the cover. Some winter covers also have holes for this reason, however in some circumstances people do not want rain water entering their pools so they opt for a different type of pool cover. Firstly what type of pool cover do you have? Do you believe it should have holes? If you are unsure then please contact the supplier or manufacturer. Unfortunately little creatures love to make pool covers their homes, you may discover that a family of mice has set up home in your cover, in order to avoid this nasty surprise it is important to store your cover in a safe, dry and sensible place.
Firstly what type of cover do you have? Manual or automatic? There are many reasons why a pool cover won’t open including electrical faults, broken switches, jammed mechanisms, broken pulleys, are there objects lodged in the track. Pool covers are technical pieces of equipment. We recommend getting your automatic pool cover looked at occasionally to ensure all is functioning well. If your cover does get stuck open or shut, don’t panic but also do not try and force it. If you can not see any obvious signs such as a blocked track then we suggest contacting your pool company to make sure no further damage is done, it may just need calibrating again.
They’ve lasted years, you’ve treated them correctly (well you think you have) then all of a sudden they start dropping off, once one goes it won’t be long till you notice a few more. Below are a few reasons why your pool tiles might be falling off.
As always we start with water chemistry, incorrect pH levels can cause the break down of plaster and grout which will cause your tiles to fall off.
Another reason could be they were not installed correctly using grout designed to be fully submerged.
The weather can also play a part in pool tiles falling off, if you have some small cracks on your tiles or grout and water has seeped behind, if this water freezes and expands then it will push the tile off the walls, once one tile has come away it is very easy for this process to be repeated and cause numerous tiles to pop off.
A high water table can lead to pressure building up behind the tiles which will eventually push them off.
So how do you prevent your pool tiles falling off. Firstly keep on top of your chemical balance, secondly winterise your pool correctly to protect it from frost damage, keep an eye on cracks and fix them asap.
Just like red or brown staining, white stains on your pool tiles could be due to minerals in your pool water. If you live in a hard water area you will more than likely see calcium deposits on your tiles. Calcium levels should be between 200-400ppm. Use a descaler or surface cleaner to remove the white calcium stains.